Amid Westside development, El Asadero restaurant fights to preserve its legacy and future

Parra stands in front of the development that encroaches on his restaurant. His dealings with developers have provided little security regarding the future of his and his wife's business, and he said his family has used up most of their savings fighting against developers. Photo by David Ricketts.

As Salt Lake City's Westside undergoes significant development and transformation, Margarito Parra and his wife Imelda Morales are working to preserve their El Asadero restaurant, which stands amid encroaching construction and a changing neighborhood dynamic.

Parra and his wife have faced ongoing hurdles with the developers of the property where El Asadero is located. The situation began when the original owner of the property sold it to Lusso Apartments. Alta Bay Capital then acquired the property from Lusso Apartments after the company went bankrupt.

Since then, Parra and Morales have experienced a decline in clientele and uncertainty about their business's future. Parra described his conversations with Lusso Apartments and Alta Bay Capital CEO Jereme Thaxton as amicable but lacking concrete outcomes for his business.

Inside El Asadero. Margarito Parra and his wife Imelda Morales have struggled in their business since their property was sold to developers. Photo by David Ricketts.

“[Lusso Apartments] promised me that they would provide some compensation when I left,” Parra said in Spanish. He also said that Thaxton later suggested the possibility of incorporating El Asadero into the new complex, as well as offering assistance with upgrades to his current location, such as new air conditioning and signage.

Building commercial kitchens like El Asadero is costly and must comply with strict health and safety regulations, including sanitation, food storage, and equipment maintenance. Second District Councilmember and Regional Development Agency (RDA) board chair Alejandro Puy, who mentioned he has dined at El Asadero in the past, said these regulatory requirements, along with the costs, often discourage developers from building such spaces. Despite this, he is working to change their minds.

“Can the city help with some of the cost to make sure that we have those spaces ready for Nico’s, The Star of India, and El Asadero, and be ready to have them stay on the Westside and maybe [have] other new ones come in?” Puy said.

In 2022, the RDA established a program to help rent those spaces to prevent them from remaining vacant and to promote economic growth in the area.

So far, no upgrades have been made to El Asadero, which is located across from the Utah State Fairpark on 1000 West and North Temple. The signage in front is rusted and unkempt, leading Parra to believe it gives the impression that the restaurant is closed.

Metal slabs lay sprawled on El Asadero’s parking lot, where Parra said the previous developers, believing they would be able to build where the restaurant sits, drilled two 4-foot-wide holes that are 12 feet deep.

El Asadero co-owner Imelda Morales prepares food for an order. She and her husband, Margarito, have struggled to attract customers back to El Asadero since developers purchased the property where their restaurant is located. Photo by David Ricketts.

According to Parra, Thaxton has not provided information on relocation assistance or equipment replacement in case El Asadero is incorporated into the new complex. To date, he has received no written communication from Thaxton or Alta Bay Capital holding them to any assistance.

During past discussions with Alta Bay Capital, Parra said he was not given the opportunity to discuss improvements, as conversations were limited to contract negotiations.

Regarding property development, Councilmember Puy said owners have the right to make changes as long as they comply with state law. Utah has established laws that limit a city's ability to influence property owners, particularly when it comes to rent and how projects impact zoning.

Worn out signage in front of El Asadero. Owner Margarito Parra said the worn appearance of the sign makes it look like the restaurant is closed for business. Photo by David Ricketts.

“There is the feeling that it’s Salt Lake City who is encouraging, or who is demolishing these buildings or pushing people out of the area,” Puy said, “The State of Utah has very lax rules for property rights and it limits how much cities can do because it’s a conservative state. Salt Lake City has very limited tools.”

The only exception is if a building holds a special historical value or significance. Puy said that only then does the state allow cities to enforce certain requirements before altering the building.

Since Parra and Morales do not own the building or property where El Asadero is located, they cannot make changes without the approval or assistance of whoever the property owners are. Also, the city cannot intervene and tell property owners what to do with their property if they are working within the confines of state law.

Puy noted that the state has considered further limiting cities' influence, calling such actions “disastrous.”

Developers who incorporate businesses like El Asadero into their projects must also meet specific financing requirements, according to Puy. Consequently, a developer may choose not to include such businesses, allowing them to build as they wish and alter the zoning as well as the visual aspect of an area.

“It is one of those issues that we are seeing in many parts of our city where there is the feeling that we lose some of our loved places,” Puy said, “We lose some of our character sometimes because of the growth that we see.”

According to Puy, this presents an opportunity to put the city’s goal of commercial growth with developers’ projects by encouraging the construction of commercial spaces. Moreover, property owners can take advantage of the RDA’s commercial rent assistance program.

“If that property owner wishes to change the zoning or request some funding from the city, either for affordable housing or for some other community benefit, it is in our interest that we are aligned,” he said.

Inside El Asadero. Photo by David Ricketts.

Additionally, Puy said existing businesses that qualify can apply for loans and grants through the city’s Department of Economic Development. These funds are available for businesses impacted by city construction or revitalization projects.

For the fiscal year 2024-2025 budget, the city allocated nearly five million dollars, or one percent, from the general fund to economic development programs. Puy said he’s been working to bring more funding to the Westside, but it takes time.

When Lusso Apartments owned the property, Parra said they refused to sign off on grants to help improve the restaurant's exterior.

Originally, El Asadero’s lease was set to expire in 2025, but after meeting with representatives from Alta Bay Capital, it has been extended to 2027. After that, Parra is unsure what will happen.

Thaxton did not respond to an interview request after being contacted by The West View at the number listed online for Alta Bay Capital’s Google listing.

Parra said local residents voiced their opposition to the construction during an online meeting with city representatives and the previous developers. After going back and forth with both the former developer and the new one, Parra feels jaded and skeptical in the end.

"[The developers] will sweet-talk you, tell you not to worry, that everything will be fine, that everything is resolved,” he said, “but in the end, everything is for their advantage." Parra is consulting with an attorney over how to best proceed in the situation.

Regarding those feelings of powerlessness, Puy believes Westside residents would benefit from improved education on the legislative process, how they can be more involved in that process, and how laws impact development.

“When my neighbors reach out to me, I can tell them ‘Hey, there is a bill being discussed in the legislature right now that could open up some tools for us,’” he said, “‘Will you be able to reach out to the legislators, our legislators in the state, and say why this is important to you?’ Sometimes, that's the piece that is missing.”

Mural on the north wall of El Asadero painted by the Rose Park Brown Berets. Photo by David Ricketts.

Even with the legal limitations, Puy said the city can do more to support businesses. However, he cautions against making promises and not delivering on them, saying it would be "a tragedy" to do so.

“I prefer to stick to my word and make sure that I'm not over-promising [or] that I'm going to solve all the problems when the legal framework is not there for me to do so,” he said.

The Office of Alejandro Puy contacted Parra and is scheduled to meet with him September 24th. Topics of discussion will include Parra’s struggles with developers, as well as how construction has impacted surrounding business and the community.

Parra and his wife have spent much of their savings battling developers, reserving only for their retirement. Despite that, the bills are paid on time, including rent. He also hopes to be able to buy the property from Alta Bay Capital provided they are willing to sell it for a fair price.

“[The original property owner] said that I would be the first buyer,” Parra said, “Unfortunately, she never gave me anything in writing.”

In the face of these challenges, Parra and Morales continue to fight for their livelihood. They have started using delivery services like DoorDash and Uber Eats to expand their customer base. They’re also looking to increase their social media presence.

Regardless, Parra recognizes the changing nature of Salt Lake City’s Westside and acknowledges that things are not the same as they were before. However, he is grateful for the support he has received from family and community members alike.